The suit is an emblematic piece of clothing that has become a staple of the professional wardrobe, as well as a fashion statement in its own right. 

Contrary to what you might think, tailoring and sartorial style can be declined and have many details that make them unique and personalized. 

In this article, we present 5 points to consider when choosing a suit jacket.

  

The fabric

 

The fabric of your suit is important, not only for its fit and quality, but also for its comfort. 

For a beautiful suit jacket, try to avoid synthetic materials.

Made from processed products, they are not thermoregulating, retaining moisture and making you sweat.

What's more, a low-quality fabric will wear out at least 5 times faster than a natural material.

Wool sheeting, for example, is an interesting material to have, whether for regular or occasional suit wearers. Widely used by many of the top fashion houses, it is as elegant as it is comfortable. 

Thermoregulating, it will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer, so you can easily wear your beautiful jacket in all seasons. 

All you have to do is choose the pieces with which to accessorize: a skirt and sandals in summer, or derbies and a heavy coat in winter.

Elastane is also a material you can look for for its suppleness and elasticity, keeping you perfectly comfortable throughout those 100-an-hour days.

At 17H10, we guarantee the highest quality by offering you Italian wool sheets worthy of the finest houses, made from natural materials, mainly certified and/or recycled materials. 

Buttoning 

 

Buttons may seem like a minor detail, but they play a crucial role in a suit's appearance.

The buttoning will have a major impact on the silhouette of the jacket.

On a good suit, there are two rules for buttoning in relation to the jacket:
- it must be on the waist (higher or lower, depending on style and cut) ;
- it must be at a harmonious distance from the bottom of the jacket (meaning that a higher buttoning implies a shorter jacket, and vice versa).

 

Depending on the look you're going for and your body type, we recommend jackets with different levels of buttoning: 

• If you want to elongate your silhouette and highlight your lower body: slim-fitting jackets with waistline buttoning, such as the Paris jacket, or the Olbia jacket. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ultimately, it's the buttonhole stitch that structures the silhouette, determining the different volumes of the upper and lower body.

The button used will also bring a different, more or less formal aesthetic: mother-of-pearl buttons, covered buttons, tick buttons... 

Pockets

 

Pockets are another important detail to consider when choosing a suit. 

It's a feature we pay little attention to, but beyond their usefulness, they're also a stylish asset.

When you think of jacket pockets, two straight pockets are the most common, with one on each side. These are welt pockets.
They are made by cutting a slit in the fabric to hide the bottom of the pocket. The visible part remains the piping, that thin strip of fabric turned inside out.

Classic and elegant, they add line to the jacket and visually accentuate the bend.

You can find these pockets on our Paris and Olbia jackets. 

Side pockets are also widely used. Sewn into the seam, they're "invisible" but give a casual look as soon as you put your hands in them. 

You can find these pockets on our Boston jackets.

As if visibly glued to the jacket, the patch pocket no longer hides inside the garment. It's not just useful, it's a style statement. 

You can find these pockets on our Moscow jackets.

The little extra: an inside pocket, as is the case with all 17H10 jackets. 

This practical pocket is found on fine tailoring jackets. It's perfect for your everyday essentials: card holder, pen, business card...

Be careful, however, not to put too bulky objects in it, which could affect the fall of the jacket.

The collar

 

Collar lapels can vary in size and shape, which can have an impact on the tailor's appearance.

On a fine jacket, you need to bear in mind that the higher the buttoning, the narrower the lapels. Also, the more buttons the jacket has, the narrower the lapels.

Wide lapels will tend to emphasize your build and shoulders, while thinner lapels will tend to elongate your silhouette, making you more upright. 

We can see this on our Moscow, Boston and Olbia jackets with wider lapels, and our Sydney, London and Paris jackets, collarless or with fairly thin lapels. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In terms of character, wider lapels can give a bolder, more formal appearance, while thinner lapels a more traditional, understated look. 

17H10 offers suit jackets with our signature detail on the reverse, representing the hands of a clock indicating 17H10.

The lining

The lining is an important element for the discerning consumer.

A lining can serve several purposes:

• Hide interior finishes by covering them.
• Protect the outer material with another, more resistant material
• Ensuring a comfortable fit. Most linings are made of smooth, flowing materials, so there's no discomfort in the back when moving around.

When it comes to fabric, viscose is THE GOOD choice for lining, for its supple, solid and thermoregulating qualities. So, when buying a suit jacket, it's not just the outer material you need to check. 

For style, colorful or printed linings can add a touch of personality to a suit, while a simple lining can give a more classic, timeless look. 

At 17H10 we offer jackets with colored linings, a pretty, original and discreet detail.

 

Now you've got all the information you need to choose the perfect suit jacket!

Choosing a good quality suit saves you time AND money, not to mention the undeniable natural presence when you wear beautiful fabrics. 

Don't forget that clothing isn't an exact science, and that you don't have to follow every trend or recommendation. The important thing is to get a result that you like and that makes you look your best.